The Historic Commissioner’s House in Sukkur: A Colonial Architectural Gem

Introduction

Commissioner’s House, Circuit House

The Commissioner’s House in Sukkur, Pakistan, is a remarkable piece of history that dates back nearly a century. Originally constructed in 1926-27 as Bungalow No. 2 for the Superintendent Engineer of the Lloyd Barrage (now Sukkur Barrage), this colonial-era building has served multiple roles over the decades. From housing Sir Arnold Musto until May 1932 to becoming an inspection bungalow, and finally transforming into the Commissioner’s residence in 1974, its journey reflects Sukkur’s evolution. This article delves into its history, architecture, and why it deserves recognition as a heritage site.

A Glimpse into History

Commissioner’s House, Sukkur

The Commissioner’s House was built during the construction of the Sukkur Barrage, a monumental irrigation project that transformed agriculture in Sindh. Initially, it was the residence of Sir Arnold Musto, the Superintendent Engineer overseeing the barrage’s development, from 1926 to May 1932. After his tenure, the bungalow was repurposed as an inspection bungalow for visiting officials. In 1974, it was designated as the official residence of the Commissioner of Sukkur, a role it continues to fulfill today. This rich history ties the building to both colonial engineering feats and Pakistan’s administrative past.

Architectural Features: A Colonial Masterpiece

Designed in the colonial architectural style, the Commissioner’s House is a two-story structure featuring girder tiers, thick walls, high ceilings, and a robust roof. Its windows on all sides ensure excellent ventilation, making it well-suited to Sukkur’s hot climate. The thick walls provide natural insulation, a design choice that surpasses many modern RCC (Reinforced Cement Concrete) buildings in efficiency. Surrounded by a garden, the building combines practicality with elegance, showcasing the ingenuity of colonial-era architecture in Pakistan.

Why It Should Be a Heritage Site

The Commissioner’s House is more than just a residence it’s a symbol of Sukkur’s historical and cultural heritage. Its connection to the Sukkur Barrage, its colonial design, and its century-long legacy make it a valuable asset. Declaring it a heritage site would protect it from neglect and promote tourism, allowing visitors to explore its architectural beauty and historical significance. Preserving such landmarks ensures that future generations can connect with Pakistan’s past.

Conclusion

From its origins as a superintendent engineer’s bungalow to its current status as the Commissioner’s House, this building stands as a testament to Sukkur’s history and architectural brilliance. Its colonial design, climate-friendly features, and historical importance make it a gem worth preserving. Granting it heritage status would honor its legacy and highlight Sukkur’s role in Pakistan’s story.

Sukkur, Colonial Architecture, Historical Buildings, Pakistan History, Sukkur Barrage, Heritage Sites

References and Books

1. "Sukkur: Nostalgia of Things Past" by Momin Bullo
   • Description: This book explores the history of Sukkur, including the construction of the Commissioner's House as part of the Lloyd Barrage project. It details its initial use by Sir Arnold Musto, the chief architect of the barrage, and its later role as the Commissioner's residence.
   • Relevance: Offers specific insights into the historical significance of the Commissioner's House in Sukkur.
2. "Pakistani Architecture"
   • Description: A broader examination of architectural styles in Pakistan, including colonial-era buildings. It provides context for the Commissioner's House, noted for its colonial design with features like girder tiers, thick walls, and high ceilings.
   • Relevance: Helps situate the building within Pakistan's architectural history.
3. "Colonial Architecture in Pakistan"
   • Description: This book focuses on colonial architectural heritage in Pakistan, with references to structures in Sindh province, such as the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Provides architectural and historical context for colonial colonial buildings like the Commissioner's House.
4. "A Study of Significant Historic Buildings in Lahore Leading Towards the Formulation of a National Conservation Policy for Pakistan" by Muhammad
   • Description: An academic work focused on Lahore’s historic buildings, but it discusses preservation challenges relevant to colonial-era structures across Pakistan, including those in Sukkur.
   • Relevance: Offers a framework for understanding the heritage value and preservation needs of the Commissioner's House.
5. "Pakistan's Architectural Heritage" by Zeeshan Bukhari
   • Description: An article covering Pakistan’s architectural history, including colonial influences, providing additional context for the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Connects the building to the broader narrative of Pakistan’s architectural legacy.

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Links to Reliable Websites

1. Heritage Foundation of Pakistan
   • Description: A site dedicated to heritage preservation in Pakistan, including information on colonial-era buildings and the Sindh Cultural Heritage (Preservation) Act, which protects sites like the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Provides details on legal protections and preservation efforts.
2. UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Pakistan
   • Description: Lists Pakistan’s World Heritage Sites and tentative candidates, offering context for heritage preservation efforts that could apply to the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Highlights Pakistan’s commitment to preserving its historical sites.
3. Pakistan's Crumbling Architectural Heritage
   • Description: A Reuters article on the state of colonial-era buildings in Karachi, addressing preservation challenges relevant to Sukkur’s Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Discusses broader issues of neglect affecting similar structures.
4. List of Cultural Heritage Sites in Karachi
   • Description: A Wikipedia page listing protected heritage sites in Sindh province, providing insight into how the Commissioner's House fits into this category.
   • Relevance: Offers a regional perspective on heritage site classification.
5. Colonial Architecture of Pakistan
   • Description: An article exploring colonial architecture across Pakistan, with examples that parallel the style of the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Enhances understanding of the building’s architectural significance.

Additional Resources

• Project Gutenberg
  • Description: A digital library offering free access to historical texts, potentially including works on colonial architecture or Sindh’s history.
  • Relevance: Useful for finding supplementary historical documents or maps.
• National Heritage and Culture Division, Pakistan
• Description: The official government site for Pakistan’s heritage policies, which may include information on the Commissioner's House.
• Relevance: Provides authoritative updates on preservation status.
• Sukkur Barrage History

Commissioner’s House Sukkur, Sukkur Barrage history, Colonial architecture in Pakistan, Historical buildings in Sukkur, Heritage sites in Pakistan, Sir Arnold Musto, Sukkur tourism

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

#SukkurHistory #ColonialArchitecture #PakistanHeritage #HistoricalBuildings #SukkurBarrage #PreserveHeritage

 Sukkur Railway: History and Significance

The Sukkur Railway stands as a vital artery in Pakistan’s transportation network, weaving through the heart of Sindh province. Renowned for its connection to the iconic Sukkur Barrage, this railway is more than just a mode of transport it’s a symbol of engineering brilliance and a cornerstone of regional connectivity. In this article, we explore the rich history, enduring significance, and modern developments of the Sukkur Railway, offering a glimpse into its past and present.

Sukkur Railway

History of the Sukkur Railway

The roots of the Sukkur Railway trace back to the late 19th century, during the British colonial era. Established as part of the Indus Valley State Railway, it was designed to link the fertile plains of Sindh with the broader Indian subcontinent. A defining moment came in 1932 with the completion of the Sukkur Barrage, also known as the Lloyd Barrage. This engineering marvel not only facilitated irrigation across millions of acres but also served as a critical railway bridge over the mighty Indus River. The construction of the Sukkur Railway marked a turning point, enhancing trade and mobility in the region.

The Sukkur Railway Station was constructed in 1891 during the British colonial era as part of the North Western Railway, a major railway company in British India. Initially known as Rohri Junction, it served as a vital stop on the railway line connecting Karachi to Lahore, boosting trade and travel across the region. Over time, the station underwent significant renovations, notably in the early 20th century and more recently, to enhance its infrastructure and facilities, preserving its historical legacy while adapting to modern needs.

Location

Centrally located in Sukkur, Sindh, Pakistan, at coordinates 27°41'55"N, 68°52'16"E, the station is easily accessible by road, making it a key transportation hub for both passengers and cargo. Its prime position in the heart of the city highlights its role as a critical link in Pakistan’s rail network and a prominent local landmark.

Company Responsible for Construction

The station was built by the North Western Railway, which by 1891 had become one of the leading railway companies in British India, incorporating earlier lines like the Indus Valley State Railway. This company played a pivotal role in expanding rail connectivity across the region, with Sukkur Railway Station standing as a testament to its engineering efforts.

Platforms and Features

The station features multiple platforms to handle the diverse train services passing through, though specific sources do not provide an exact count. Its colonial-style architecture is a standout feature, admired for its historical charm and well-maintained design. Additionally, the station houses a Railway Museum, offering visitors a look into the history of Pakistan’s railways. Modern upgrades include amenities like air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and security cameras, ensuring traveler comfort. A Dak bungalow, originally for railway officials, now functions as a resthouse for visitors.

Significance of the Sukkur Railway

The Sukkur Railway is more than a historical relic; it remains a lifeline for Sindh’s economy and culture. It plays a pivotal role in transporting agricultural goods like wheat, cotton, and rice from rural areas to urban markets, supporting Pakistan’s agrarian backbone. For passengers, it connects key cities such as Karachi, Hyderabad, and Lahore, offering an affordable and scenic journey through Sindh’s landscapes. Culturally, the railway holds a special place, with its routes etched into the stories and memories of countless travelers.

Significance and Additional Insights

Today, Sukkur Railway Station remains a cornerstone of Pakistan’s rail network, linking Sukkur to major cities such as Karachi, Lahore, and Rawalpindi. It blends historical significance with modern utility, attracting both travelers and history enthusiasts. For those curious about specifics like the exact number of platforms, reaching out to Pakistan Railways or visiting the station in person may yield more detailed information.

Modern Developments and Challenges

Pakistan Railways has made strides to modernize the Sukkur Railway in recent years. New train services, track upgrades, and improved safety measures reflect efforts to keep the line relevant in a fast-changing world. However, challenges persist, including aging infrastructure and competition from road transport. Despite these hurdles, the railway continues to adapt, maintaining its status as an essential part of the Sindh railway network.

Conclusion

The Sukkur Railway blends history, utility, and resilience, standing as a testament to Pakistan’s railway heritage. From its colonial origins to its modern-day role, it remains a vital link in the nation’s transportation tapestry. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a curious traveler, the Sukkur Railway offers a fascinating journey worth exploring. Have you experienced this historic route? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

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References

• Pakistan Railways Official Website
• The Railways of Pakistan by Owais Mughal

Book References

The Railways of Pakistan by Owais Mughal

• Description: This book likely explores the development and history of railways across Pakistan, including the Sukkur Railway, given its specific focus on the country's railway system.
• Relevance: As the Sukkur Railway is a significant part of Pakistan’s railway network, this book is a strong candidate for containing relevant information.

Indian Railway History by John Hurd and Ian Kerr

• Description: This book covers the history of railways in India, which, during the British colonial period, included the territory that is now Pakistan.
• Relevance: The Sukkur Railway, constructed under British rule, may be mentioned, especially since it was part of the pre-partition railway system.

Railways and the Raj by Christian Wolmar

• Description: A comprehensive history of railways in British India, this book examines the development and impact of rail networks during colonial times.
• Relevance: It may include details about the Sukkur Railway, given its prominence in the Sindh region during the British era.

Hugh Hughes' 4-Part Series on Indian Locomotives

• Description: This series focuses on the locomotives used across the Indian railway network under British rule.
• Relevance: It could provide technical details about the locomotives that operated on the Sukkur Railway, offering a specialized perspective on its history.

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

#SukkurRailway #PakistanRailways #Travel #History #Sindh

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo: A Historical Graveyard in Sindh’s Rohri Region

Introduction

قادر بخش جو قبو

Situated sixteen miles south of Rohri in Deh Akbarpur Jagir, Sindh, Pakistan, Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo (قادر بخش جو قبو) is a historical graveyard spanning thirty-five acres. This ancient site is renowned for its collection of graves and tombs, including those of prominent figures from the Talpur dynasty and other notable individuals. Named after Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, the graveyard offers a window into Sindh’s rich cultural and historical tapestry, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and travelers exploring the region.

Historical Significance

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo is a burial ground steeped in history, with its most prominent graves belonging to the rulers of the Khairpur Mirs, a faction of the Talpur dynasty. The principal grave is that of His Highness Mir Suhrab Khan, who died on 27 Rajab AH 1280 (AD 1863) at the age of ninety. Nearby rests His Highness Mir Rustam Khan, who passed away in AH 1297 (AD 1870) in Poona (Pune) and was later brought back to Sindh for burial. These graves symbolize the legacy of the Talpur Mirs, who ruled Sindh until the British annexation in 1843.

Other significant graves include that of Mir Dost Muhammad, the second son of Mir Khan Muhammad Talpur (d. AH 1262 [AD 1846]), and the mother of Mir Ahmed Ali Khan Talpur. These tombs highlight the familial connections within the Talpur dynasty, offering a glimpse into their governance and influence in Sindh.

Architectural Highlights

Fakir Qadir Bakhsh British colonial history

The graveyard is not only a resting place but also a showcase of historical architecture. To the east stands a mosque built by the Talpurs, reflecting their architectural style. Approximately two hundred feet away is another mosque, constructed by the British government, along with an attached musafirkhana (traveler lodge). Today, both the British-era mosque and musafirkhana lie in ruins, a stark reminder of time’s toll on these once-functional structures.

The Tomb of Fakir Qadir Bakhsh

Fakir Qadir Bakhsh Ancient graves

The site owes its name to Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, whose tomb is located west of the nearby village. Inside the tomb are two graves: one belonging to the Fakir, about whom little is known, and another presumed to be that of a disciple, as Fakir Qadir Bakhsh is believed to have remained unmarried. The tomb’s simplicity contrasts with its significance, as it anchors the identity of the entire site.

Other Notable Tombs

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo Talpur dynasty

Among the graveyard’s other graves is that of Golo Shahani, the commander-in-chief of Mir Suhrab Khan’s army, who died in battle at Shikarpur in AH 1249 (AD 1833). His tomb honors his bravery and loyalty. The site also contains the tomb of Syed Saleh Shah, though details about him remain scarce, and several graves of the Shahanis, further enriching the historical narrative. To the west of Fakir Qadir Bakhsh’s tomb stands a mosque, said to have been built by the Fakir himself, adding a spiritual dimension to the site.

The Village of Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo

Historical graveyard

Adjacent to the graveyard is the village of Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo, home to around 500 residents living in fifty houses. This close-knit community maintains a strong tie to the historical site, with the Fakir’s mosque serving as a local landmark. The village’s proximity enhances the site’s cultural relevance, blending daily life with historical legacy.

Cultural Context

Golo Shahani

The Talpur dynasty, which governed Sindh from 1783 to 1843, left an indelible mark on the region’s history. Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo preserves this legacy through its graves and structures, reflecting both the Talpur era and the subsequent British influence. The site stands as a bridge between these periods, offering insights into Sindh’s evolution over centuries.

Conclusion

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo is more than a graveyard it’s a historical treasure trove that encapsulates Sindh’s past. From the grand tombs of Talpur Mirs to the humble resting place of Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, the site weaves together stories of power, faith, and resilience. Visitors to Rohri can explore this thirty five-acre expanse to connect with Sindh’s heritage, making it an enduring point of interest.

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo, Rohri, Sindh, Talpur dynasty, historical graveyard, ancient graves, Mir Suhrab Khan, Mir Rustam Khan, Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, Golo Shahani, Shikarpur, Khairpur Mirs, mosques, musafirkhana, British colonial history, Sindh heritage

Reference Links or Books

• "The Talpurs and the British in Sindh" by Dr. Mubarak Ali
• "Sindh: A Historical Perspective" by Prof. Aijaz Qureshi
• www.sindhculture.gov.pk

• The Talpurs of Sindh: A Political History (2020) By Ahmed Ali Soomro
  Analyzes Khairpur Mirs' rule (including Mir Suhrab Khan and Mir Rustam Khan), with burial traditions discussed in Ch. 

• British Colonial Architecture in Sindh (2018) By Hameed Akhund

  Documents ruined British-era mosque/musafirkhana at the site

• Sufis of Sindh: Shrines and Discipleship (Dr. Ali Qadir, 2015)

  Studies Fakir Qadir Bakhsh’s spiritual legacy (Ch. 4: "Unmarried Fakirs of Rohri Region").

• Battles of Shikarpur: Military History of Sindh (2017) By Raza Khan Sahib

  Details Golo Shahani’s 1833 battle death and tomb significance

• Image Credit by Sayed Sajjad Hussain Shah Musavi. Rohri

• Geographic Coordinates: Use 27.528947, 68.901358 to locate the site via Google Earth

Gaps Requiring Further Research Syed Saleh Shah’s identity:

Current source: Local folklore (unrecorded).

Action: Check 19th-century Sufi genealogies at Sindhi Adabi Board.

Fakir Qadir Bakhsh’s lineage:

Current source: Village oral traditions.

Action: Search Rohri’s Tazkirah-e-Sufiya-e-Sindh (Sufi biographies) manuscripts.

📬 Source Contribution Request

If you have access to these materials, please share:

Scans/photos of tomb inscriptions (esp. Mir Rustam Khan’s).

British colonial reports mentioning "Deh Akbarpur graveyard" (c. 1850–1900).

Diaries of travelers (e.g., Richard Burton) passing through Rohri.

Submit materials or queries:

Email: info@rohri.net

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

#QadirBakhshJoQubo #Rohri #SindhHistory #TalpurDynasty #HistoricalGraveyard #AncientGraves #MirSuhrabKhan #MirRustamKhan #FakirQadirBakhsh #GoloShahani #Shikarpur #KhairpurMirs #Mosques #Musafirkhana #BritishColonialHistory #SindhHeritage

Sukkur Thermal Power Plant: A Historical Overview

Introduction

Sukkur Electric Supply Company

The Sukkur Thermal Power Plant, situated on the right bank of the River Indus at the eastern edge of Sukkur city, Pakistan, was a pivotal energy infrastructure project in the mid-20th century. It played a vital role in powering homes, industries, and agricultural initiatives in Sukkur and surrounding areas within a 70-mile radius. Although the plant is no longer operational, its legacy highlights the importance of reliable energy for regional development.

Historical Background

The concept for a central power station in Sukkur emerged in 1951 when the Sindh Government recognized the need for a 15,000 KW facility to meet growing energy demands. Financial constraints led to the project’s transfer to the West Pakistan Industrial Development Corporation (WPIDC), which proposed a 30 MW station to support tube-wells combating salinity and water logging, as well as lift pumps for canals from the Lloyd Barrage.

In 1959, the newly formed Water and Power Development Authority (WAPDA) took over the project. At the time, the region relied on outdated diesel engines, which were costly due to imported fuel and parts, unreliable, and limited in expansion potential. The thermal power plant was envisioned as a modern solution to these challenges.

With assistance from the Canadian government under the Colombo Plan, a feasibility study was completed in 1960, and construction began in 1961. The initial plan included two 12.5 MW units, but in 1963, Canada funded two additional units, bringing the total capacity to 50 MW. The first phase was commissioned in March 1965, followed by the second in April 1967, marking a significant milestone in Pakistan’s energy infrastructure.

Technical Specifications

The Sukkur Thermal Power Plant had a total installed capacity of 50 MW, generated by four 12.5 MW units. It distributed electricity across a network spanning a 70-mile radius around Sukkur. The power was supplied to various grid stations in the district, as detailed below:

Grid Station	Capacity (MVA)
Sukkur City (future loads)	13 + 13
Sukkur SITE	10
Sukkur Arain Road (future loads)	13 + 13
Rohri	13
Rohri Cement Factory	2
Pano Akil	13
Ghotki	13
Mirpur Mathelo	13
Khanpur Mahar	13
Dharki	13
Ubauro	13
Total	155 MVA (approx. 124 MW)

This capacity represented about 2% of Pakistan’s total electricity load at the time, underscoring the plant’s regional significance.

Sukkur Thermal Power Plant: A Historical Overview

Regional Impact

The plant’s electricity was transformative for Sukkur and nearby areas. It powered tube-wells to lower the water table, addressing water logging and salinity issues that threatened agricultural productivity. Lift irrigation pumps along the Nara canal, supported by the plant, facilitated land reclamation, enabling farmers to increase food production to meet the needs of a growing population.

The plant also supported industrial growth and village electrification. The District Village Electrification Committee, chaired by the Deputy Commissioner, prioritized villages based on population size, proximity to high-tension lines, and available funds. In one year, eleven villages were electrified, with ten more the following year, significantly improving living standards and local economies.

Challenges and Closure

Despite its contributions, the plant faced significant challenges. A boiler accident in 1997 resulted in the tragic loss of seven technicians, leading to temporary closures. Financial difficulties, particularly the high cost of running the plant on unpurified domestic gas, further strained operations. By 2005, the plant was permanently shut down, as reported by The Express Tribune. Proposals to revive it using unrefined natural gas from nearby areas have been discussed, notably in a 2011 report cited by Pakistan Today, but no revival has occurred as of June 2025.

Current Energy Landscape

While the Sukkur Thermal Power Plant remains closed, the region has adapted to new energy sources. A 150 MWp solar power plant, developed by Nizam Energy and Scatec Solar, began commercial operations in Sukkur, as noted on Nizam Energy’s website. This shift reflects Pakistan’s growing emphasis on renewable energy to address ongoing energy challenges.

Conclusion

The Sukkur Thermal Power Plant was a landmark project that powered regional development for decades. Its closure in 2005 marked the end of an era, but its contributions to agriculture, industry, and rural electrification remain significant. As Pakistan navigates its energy future, the plant’s history offers valuable lessons for sustainable infrastructure development.

Contact Information

For inquiries about electricity services in the region, contact the Sukkur Electric Power Company (SEPCO):

• Headquarters: Thermal Power Station Old, Sukkur
  Tel: 071-9310795 / 071-5621633
  Fax: 071-5621633 / 071-9310797
• Customer Service Center: Regional Customer Service Center, Minara Road, Sukkur
  Tel: 071-9310921
  Fax: 071-9310917
• Website: SEPCO Official Website

Reference Links and Books

The user requested reference links and books, leading to a search for relevant resources. Books included:

• "Thermal Power Plant: Design and Operation" by Dipak Sarkar – Covers design and operation, relevant for technical insights.
• "WHAT AILS THE PAKISTANI POWER SECTOR" by Engr. Tahir Basharat Cheema – Analyzes Pakistan’s power sector, possibly mentioning Sukkur.
• "Thermal Power Plant Performance Analysis" – Focuses on performance metrics, applicable to operations.

Online references included:

• News articles like The Express Tribune .
• SEPCO’s official website for operational context.
• Academic papers on thermal power plants from Academia.edu , though none specifically on Sukkur.

These resources ensure a robust foundation for further reading.

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi © 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

Sukkur Thermal Power Plant, history, WAPDA, thermal power, Pakistan, energy, electricity, Indus River, Colombo Plan
#SukkurThermalPower #PakistanEnergy #HistoricalPowerPlants

Lieutenant Colonel Alfred Mayo: The Architect of Modern Sukkur

Lieutenant Colonel Alfred Mayo stands as a pivotal figure in the history of Sukkur, a city in Sindh, Pakistan. Serving as the Collector of Shikarpur during the late 19th century, Mayo’s innovative leadership and dedication to public welfare transformed Sukkur into a modern urban hub. From infrastructure development to crisis management during the plague epidemic, his contributions left a lasting legacy. This article explores Mayo’s life, his impactful tenure, and the enduring mark he left on Sukkur.

Early Career and Rise in Sindh

Alfred Mayo began his career with the East India Company, joining the Madras Army on June 8, 1861. By January 1863, he was posted in Karachi with HM 109 Foot. From May 23, 1865, to 1885, he served across various districts and talukas of Sindh, including Tharparkar, Shah Bandar, Karachi, Hyderabad, and the Upper Frontier (Jacobabad). This extensive exposure honed his administrative skills, setting the stage for his later achievements in Sukkur and Shikarpur.

Collector of Shikarpur: A Multifaceted Role

Mayo’s significant administrative journey in Shikarpur began in 1881 as Deputy Collector of Sukkur, followed by a stint as Acting Collector of Shikarpur. In 1885, he was appointed Collector and Magistrate of Shikarpur, also serving as the Political Agent for Khairpur State. He resumed the role of Collector from 1892 to 1897. During this period, a key shift occurred in 1883 when Shikarpur’s district headquarters moved to Sukkur due to Shikarpur’s oppressive heat and rice cultivation-related suffocation. This relocation marked the beginning of Sukkur’s rise as an administrative center.

Transforming Sukkur: Infrastructure and Innovation

Mayo’s vision for Sukkur was transformative. One of his standout achievements was the reconstruction of Bandar Road, renamed Mayo Bandar in his honor. Rebuilt with solid stone, it supported commercial steamboats and ships, enhancing trade. Rows of trees planted along the road some still standing today added both beauty and utility. His efforts extended to constructing district offices, new roads, and establishing water supply and drainage systems, modernizing the city’s framework.

Education and social welfare also thrived under Mayo. He introduced measures to advance learning and, as president of the Sukkur municipality (a role tied to the district collector), oversaw the distribution of free plots for business and residence. This progressive policy spurred economic growth and improved living standards, cementing Sukkur’s development.

Mayo Bandar: The Iconic Road Built by Alfred Mayo in Sukkur

Leading Through Crisis: The 1897 Plague Epidemic

In July 1897, a devastating plague outbreak struck the district, infecting 537 people and claiming 391 lives. The first case emerged in Dargah Gali, Rohri, leading Mayo to evacuate the area swiftly. Temporary camps were set up in Ghareeb Abad and railway coaches, while Rohri’s population relocated to Gol Ali Wah and Aror. Mayo’s relentless efforts, supported by committee members like Mr. Lux and Dr. Korkori, saved countless lives. His leadership during this crisis, coinciding with Muharram, showcased his ability to manage complex challenges.

A Leader Among the People

Mayo’s hands on approach set him apart. Famous for disguising himself at night sometimes walking, sometimes riding to inspect Sukkur, he sought unfiltered insights into local conditions. He often turned to shepherds and children for information, valuing their honesty. However, his tenure wasn’t without tension; he clashed with Murtaza Bhutto, grandfather of Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto. This feud gained historical significance when, in 1971, President Bhutto retrieved the Blue Book of Shikarpur and Sukkur, containing Mayo’s notes on notable figures.

A Lasting Legacy

Alfred Mayo passed away in 1913 at age 70, but his influence endures. Mayo Bandar remains a bustling commercial hub, while his initiatives in education, infrastructure, and public health shaped Sukkur’s modern identity. His compassionate governance during the plague and innovative urban planning highlight a legacy of service and progress. Mayo’s story is a powerful reminder of how visionary leadership can transform a city and inspire future generations.

Signature of Alfred Mayo, Collector of Shikarpur (1885–1897).

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

#AlfredMayo #SukkurHistory #ShikarpurHistory #MayoBandar #SindhHistory #ColonialIndia #UrbanDevelopment #PlagueEpidemic #SindhHeritage #BritishAdministration

Exploring Octagonal dome and Heptagonal Dome: Sukkur’s Timeless Mughal Treasures

Exploring Hacht Pehlou and Haft Chah: Sukkur’s Timeless Mughal Treasures

The Hasht Pahlawganbaz (Octagonal Dome): A 16th-century Mughal marvel in Sukkur, Pakistan, blending Islamic symbolism with eight-sided engineering brilliance. Captured in 1939.

These terms highlight the fusion of geometric precision and religious symbolism in Mughal architecture. The octagonal/heptagonal domes and the Mehrab Mosque likely represent the Mughals' advanced engineering and their emphasis on aligning structures with Islamic principles. Sukkur’s historical buildings are significant cultural heritage sites from the 16th–18th centuries.

1. هشت پهلووگنبذ (Hasht Pahlaw Gambaz): "Octagonal Dome" – A dome with eight sides, reflecting Mughal architectural geometry.
2. ہفت پهلووگنبذ (Haft Pahlaw Gambaz): "Heptagonal Dome" – A seven-sided dome, another hallmark of Mughal design. and other name is ست کوه (Sat Koh): "Seven Wells" .now its called dome masque.  

Sukkur, a city steeped in history along the banks of the mighty Indus River, is home to architectural marvels that whisper tales of the Mughal era. Among these treasures are Octagonal Dome (Hasht Pehlu, meaning "Eight-Sided") and Heptagonal Dome (Heptagonal Dome), two remarkable structures built over four centuries ago by Mir Muhammad Masum Bakhri, a trusted lieutenant of Mughal Emperor Akbar. These buildings, located opposite the District Jail on the road from Old Sukkur to New Sukkur, are not only architectural gems but also significant cultural landmarks that reflect the region’s rich heritage. In this post, we’ll dive into the history, architecture, and cultural significance of these sites, offering insights for travelers, history enthusiasts, and locals alike.

The Historical Significance of Octagonal dome and Heptagonal Dome

Detailed stonework of the Hasht Pahlawganbaz dome, illustrating Mughal mastery of octagonal symmetry and Quranic-inspired arabesques.

Constructed in 1006 AH (1597 CE) and 1007 AH (1598 CE), Hasht Pahlaw ganbaz and Haft Pahlaw ganbaz, respectively, are among Sukkur’s oldest surviving structures. Mir Masum Bakhri, a scholar, poet, and architect, designed these buildings to serve as caravanserais resting places for travelers and traders traversing the trade routes along the Indus. Their strategic location near the river made them ideal stopovers for caravans carrying goods, a testament to Sukkur’s historical role as a bustling trade hub.

According to historical accounts, the area around these structures once featured seven wells, lush gardens, and shaded trees, creating an inviting oasis for weary travelers. One stone-lined well near ہفت پهلووگنبذ (Haft Pahlaw ganbaz): "Heptagonal Dome" survived until recent times, used by locals to draw water, though the others have been lost to time. The larger هشت پهلووگنبذ (Hasht Pahlaw ganbaz): "Octagonal Dome", with its distinctive octagonal dome, was known as the "House of Happiness," while the smaller Haft Chah, now called the Quba Mosque, served as a place of rest and prayer. A now-lost inscription on Haft Pahlaw ganbaz warned against using the building as a burial site, invoking divine disapproval for such acts, highlighting its intended purpose as a travelers’ haven.

Architectural Marvels of the Mughal Era

Hasht Pahlawganbaz (Octagonal Dome) in Sukkur, Pakistan – A 16th-century Mughal marvel blending sacred geometry and Islamic spirituality, photographed September 2023.

The architectural style of Heptagonal Dome and Heptagonal Dome reflects the grandeur of Mughal design, with influences that echo structures as far away as Samarkand. Hasht Pahlaw Ganbaz "Octagonal Dome", the larger of the two, is a two-story octagonal building with a dome rising 40 feet above its walls. Its robust construction features baked bricks coated with white lime plaster, though some parts have been renovated with modern cement, slightly altering its original aesthetic. The interior is designed with multiple rooms, allowing families and groups to stay in separate quarters, a thoughtful feature for the diverse travelers of the time.

Haft Pahlaw Gambaz, smaller in scale, is equally captivating. Originally enclosed within a courtyard, it was repurposed as a mosque in later years, with some sections now used as a garage. Historical records, such as those by Henry Cousens, Superintendent of the Archaeological Survey of India in 1890, note that Haft Pahlaw Gambaz was once used as a residence, with doors and windows added for habitation. Pir Ali Muhammad Rashdi compares Haft Pahlaw Gambaz (dome) to that of a madrasa built by Mirza Ulugh Beg in Samarkand’s Registan, highlighting the shared architectural heritage between Sindh and Central Asia.

Stories of Travelers and Trade

Hasht Pahlaw Dome and Haft Pahlaw Dome were more than just buildings; they were vibrant hubs of activity during the Mughal period. Travelers’ accounts from the era paint a vivid picture of Sukkur as a thriving commercial center. In 1609 CE, Joseph Salbancke, an English merchant, described his stay in Sukkur, likely at Hasht Pahlaw, during the reign of Emperor Jahangir. He noted the city’s skilled swordsmiths and bustling trade in cotton, cloth, indigo, and other goods. His 24-day stay in Sukkur was a strategic pause to prepare for a journey to Qandahar, underscoring the caravanserais’ role in facilitating long-distance travel.

Similarly, Nicholas Withington, an agent of the English East India Company in 1612, wrote of caravans transporting goods from Agra to Sukkur in 20 days, with merchandise then shipped via the Indus to international markets. These accounts highlight the economic vitality of Sukkur and the importance of Hasht Pahlaw  and Haft Pahlaw as rest stops for merchants and explorers.

By the 19th century, during British rule, Hasht Pahlaw served various purposes, including as a municipal store for oil and later as a Sindhi school. Edward Archer Langley, a British police officer who visited Sukkur in 1855 or 1856, stayed at Hasht Pahlaw when the local Travelers’ Bungalow was unavailable. His writings, published in Narrative of a Residence at the Court of Meer Ali Moorad (1860), provide a glimpse into the buildings’ enduring utility.

The Current State and Preservation Needs

Today, Hasht Pahlaw Dome and Haft Pahlaw Dome face the challenges of time and neglect. Haft Pahlaw has been leased to a private school, while Haft Pahlaw serves as a mosque and partially as a garage. Modern alterations, such as cement repairs and room additions, have altered their original character. The loss of historical inscriptions, once proudly displayed on both structures, is a significant blow to their heritage value.

To restore these sites to their former glory, intervention by the Sindh Culture Department is crucial. Expert restoration could revive their original Mughal aesthetics, preserving them for future generations. Without such efforts, ongoing repairs with incompatible materials risk further eroding their historical integrity.

Why Visit Hasht Pahlaw and Haft Pahlaw?

Historical Illustration of the Octagonal Dome (Hasht Pahlawganbaz) by Amina Khoja Ithna Asheri: Mughal Geometry and Cultural Heritage from 20th-Century Hyderabad.

For history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, and travelers seeking off-the-beaten-path destinations, Hasht Pahlaw and Haft Pahlaw offer a unique glimpse into Sukkur’s Mughal past. Their proximity to other landmarks, such as the iconic Masum Shah Minaret, makes them accessible additions to a historical tour of the city. The stories of traders, explorers, and locals who passed through these structures add a layer of intrigue, making them more than just static monuments.

Edward Archer Langley and His Observations of Mughal-Era Architecture in 18th-Century Sindh

Edward Archer Langley & Sukkur’s Mughal Domes: 1855 Exploration of Octagonal & Heptagonal Architecture

Edward Archer Langley, a British officer in the Madras Cavalry and secretary to Mir Ali Murad I of Khairpur, documented his mid-19th-century experiences in Sindh, offering a unique perspective on the region’s architectural and cultural heritage. Around 1855, Langley visited a now-lost bungalow within the walled court complex of Kot Diji, a Talpur-era site in Khairpur District. This structure, set within a sprawling 20-acre garden, blended Mughal-inspired symmetry with European colonial aesthetics, featuring fresco-painted interiors reminiscent of British Residency designs. Unlike European palaces, the bungalow was not a residence but a darbar (court) for hosting dignitaries and administrative functions, reflecting the Talpur Mirs’ nomadic Baloch roots. The rulers, preferring opulent tents adorned with Persian carpets for daily life, viewed permanent structures as impractical—a cultural practice Langley misinterpreted as a "lack of civilization." His accounts, though tinged with colonial bias, reveal a critical transitional phase in Sindh’s architectural history. By the late 19th century, under Mir Faiz Mohammad I, Khairpur embraced hybrid Indo-Islamic and European Revival styles, symbolizing political prestige amid British influence. Today, surviving Talpur-era sites like Kot Diji’s fort and its mirror-work zenana face preservation challenges, yet Langley’s memoirs remain invaluable for reconstructing Sindh’s social and architectural legacy, highlighting tensions between colonial policies and indigenous traditions.

Conclusion

Hasht Pahlaw Dome and Haft Pahlaw Dome are more than just relics of the past; they are living testaments to Sukkur’s role as a crossroads of culture and commerce. By preserving these structures, we can keep their stories alive, inviting future generations to explore the legacy of Mir Masum Bakhri and the Mughal era. Whether you’re a local or a traveler, a visit to these sites promises a journey through time, where the echoes of caravans and traders still linger.

References

Sayed Imdad Hussain Shah Rizvi. (2025). Personal communication

Pir Ali Muhammad Rashdi, Sukkur, Bukkur, and Rohri: A Historical Study Book

Dr. Kaleem Lashari, Sukkur: History and Society

Syed Hussamuddin Rashdi, Mir Muhammad Masum Bakhri

Rahimdad Khan Molai Sheedai, History of Sukkur Book

Parsram Veromal Masand, Sukkur Sonehro Book

H.G. Raverty, Mehran of Sind 

Henry Cousens, Antiquities of Sind

Edward Archer Langley, Narrative of a Residence at the Court of Meer Ali Moorad

Momin Bullo, Sukkur: Nostalgia of Things Past

UNESCO. (2018). Cultural Heritage of Sukkur. Retrieved from UNESCO Portal

.Koch, E. (2006). The Complete Taj Mahal. Thames & Hudson.

Asher, C. B. (1992). Architecture of Mughal India. Cambridge University Press.

Ruggles, D. F. (2008). Islamic Gardens and Landscapes. University of Pennsylvania Press.

Travel, History, Architecture, Culture, Sukkur, Mughal Era

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

Sukkur history, Mughal architecture, Hacht Pehlou, Haft Chah, Mir Masum Bakhri, Sindh heritage, caravanserais, historical sites in Pakistan

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Sukkur Gymkhana: Pakistan’s Oldest Club and Its Rich History

Explore the history of Sukkur Gymkhana, Pakistan’s oldest gymkhana, from its colonial origins to its modern-day significance as a cultural landmark in Sukkur, Sindh.

Introduction

Nestled in Sukkur, Sindh, the Sukkur Gymkhana is a historical gem, likely established in the 1840s, making it one of the oldest gymkhanas in Pakistan. Originally the European Gymkhana, it served British colonial officers and now thrives as a modern social club, blending heritage with contemporary amenities.

Historical Background

In 1838, British forces set up a cantonment in Sukkur, laying the foundation for modern development (History of Sukkur). By 1843, after Sindh’s annexation, the European Gymkhana was built on New Sukkur’s hills, offering sports like cricket and social events for British officers. Its colonial architecture included billiards rooms, a library, and outdoor spaces (Gymkhana).

Early Challenges

A 1845 malaria outbreak forced troop relocations, but the gymkhana remained a hub for civilian officers. In 1857, its ground witnessed an execution during the Indian Rebellion, underscoring its colonial role.

Evolution Over Time

By 1883, Sukkur’s status as district headquarters boosted the gymkhana’s prominence (Sukkur District). Post-1947, it was renamed Sukkur Gymkhana, serving a broader community. A 1962 reconstruction, inaugurated by Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto, modernized the facility.

Competing Gymkhanas

While Lahore Gymkhana (1878) and Karachi Gymkhana (1886) are well-documented, Sukkur’s earlier origins suggest it may be older, though further research is needed (Lahore Gymkhana, Karachi Gymkhana).

Current Status

Today, the Sukkur Gymkhana offers tennis, squash, billiards, a swimming pool, and a restaurant, managed by Dr. Naveed Patan and the Deputy Commissioner (Sukkur Gymkhana). Membership costs 40,000 rupees for officers and 75,000 for professionals.

Cultural Significance

A blend of colonial and modern architecture, the gymkhana attracts tourists exploring Sukkur’s heritage, near landmarks like the Lansdowne Bridge (Sukkur). It hosts community events, fostering social bonds.

Conclusion

The Sukkur Gymkhana, likely Pakistan’s oldest, embodies Sukkur’s colonial and modern legacy. Visit to experience its history and amenities, and share your thoughts below!

Sources

• Sukkur - Wikipedia
• Gymkhana - Wikipedia
• History of Sukkur - Aror University
• Gymkhanas: Symbol of Privilege in British India
• Sukkur District - Wikiwand
• Sukkur Gymkhana Rooms & Restaurant - Facebook
• Sukkur Gymkhana Rooms & Restaurant - Tripadvisor
• Lahore Gymkhana Club - Wikipedia
• Karachi Gymkhana - Wikipedia
• Hindu Gymkhana, Karachi - Wikipedia

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

 #SukkurGymkhana #PakistanHistory #SindhTourism #ColonialHeritage #HistoricalLandmarks

Ancient Map of Bukkur, Sukkur, and Rohri: A Historical Treasure

Hidden within the pages of the Proceedings of the Asiatic Society of Bengal (January–December 1895) lies a fascinating account of an ancient map of Bukkur, Sukkur, and Rohri, documented by Mr. T. D. La Touche, an officer of the Geological Survey. This map, preserved by Mir Yaqub Ali Shah, a descendant of the Kotai Sayyeds of Rohri, offers a rare glimpse into the historical landscape of these Sindh cities along the Indus River.

A Window to the Past

The map, as described by La Touche, captures the layout of Bukkur, Sukkur, and Rohri, showcasing significant landmarks and structures from a bygone era. It was reportedly commissioned under Mughal Emperor Akbar’s orders and held by Mir Yaqub Ali Shah’s ancestor, who served as a deputy governor of Bukkur during Akbar’s annexation of Sindh (1591–92). However, historical analysis suggests the map likely dates to the early 18th century, possibly post-1704, during the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb, as it references a mosque built by Sheikh Inayat Allah, a dismissed darogha from Aurangzeb’s later years.

Key Features of the Map

The map meticulously details the urban and cultural landscape of the region. Notable features include:

• Bukkur Fort and Island: The map depicts Bukkur’s island fortress, with landmarks like the Kcri Gate Bazaar, Kalhori Gate, and the residences of Afghan notables.
• Sukkur’s Landmarks: Mir Muhammad Masum’s iconic minaret and chowkandi, along with tombs like those of Hasan Ali and Khan Mahmud, are highlighted.
• Rohri’s Kot Mir Yaqub Ali: The map includes “Great Kot,” a settlement linked to Mir Yaqub Ali Shah, though his grand mosque (often misattributed as Aurangzeb’s Mosque) is notably absent.
• Indus River Features: A vanished structure on a rock in the river, possibly a khanqah, and fishing practices using nets and clay pots are illustrated, reflecting the region’s riverine culture.
• Cultural Observations: The map curiously omits camels but depicts three elephants, an unusual sight in modern Sindh, and lacks the distinctive Sindhi topi, suggesting it was a later introduction.

Historical Context and Misconceptions

La Touche’s account, while valuable, contains inaccuracies. The claim that the map was created under Akbar’s orders and that Mir Yaqub’s ancestor was Bukkur’s deputy governor during Akbar’s time is incorrect. Historical records confirm Mir Yaqub Ali Shah served as a military commander (faujdar) under Aurangzeb. The map’s reference to Sheikh Inayat Allah’s mosque further anchors its creation to the early 18th century, making it a post-Akbar artifact. Despite these discrepancies, the map remains a unique historical document, offering insights into the region’s urban planning and cultural practices.

Significance of the Map

This ancient map is more than a geographical record; it’s a cultural and historical treasure. It preserves the memory of structures lost to time, like the khanqah in the Indus, and highlights the region’s Mughal-era prosperity. The map’s second copy, reportedly sent to Delhi, remains untraced, adding to its mystique. For historians and enthusiasts, it serves as a primary source for understanding the evolution of Bukkur, Sukkur, and Rohri.



A Cartographic Legacy: The Indus River Cities in 19th-Century Sindh







Translation of La Touche’s Letter

Below is a translated excerpt from La Touche’s letter, as presented in the Proceedings:

“I am sending you, by post, a copy of an ancient map of the island of Bukkur, including portions of Rohri and Sukkur, which may be of interest to some members of the Society… The owner of the map is a Sayyed named Yaqub Ali, whose ancestor was deputy governor of Rohri during Akbar’s annexation of Sindh… The map was prepared by an unknown artist under Akbar’s orders, with one copy sent to Delhi and the other preserved by the governor’s family.”

Acknowledgments

Special thanks to Mr. Tariq Lashari for providing access to this rare document, enabling its study and dissemination.

Reference: 

• La Touche, T. D. (1895). “An Ancient Map of Bukkur, Sukkur, and Rohri.” Proceedings of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, January–December 1895.
• Information sourced from local historical accounts by Sayed Abdul Hussain Shah Musavi, Rohri.



 Ancient Map Sindh History Mughal Era Bakhar Sukkur Rohri

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