The Historic Commissioner’s House in Sukkur: A Colonial Architectural Gem

Introduction

Commissioner’s House, Circuit House

The Commissioner’s House in Sukkur, Pakistan, is a remarkable piece of history that dates back nearly a century. Originally constructed in 1926-27 as Bungalow No. 2 for the Superintendent Engineer of the Lloyd Barrage (now Sukkur Barrage), this colonial-era building has served multiple roles over the decades. From housing Sir Arnold Musto until May 1932 to becoming an inspection bungalow, and finally transforming into the Commissioner’s residence in 1974, its journey reflects Sukkur’s evolution. This article delves into its history, architecture, and why it deserves recognition as a heritage site.

A Glimpse into History

Commissioner’s House, Sukkur

The Commissioner’s House was built during the construction of the Sukkur Barrage, a monumental irrigation project that transformed agriculture in Sindh. Initially, it was the residence of Sir Arnold Musto, the Superintendent Engineer overseeing the barrage’s development, from 1926 to May 1932. After his tenure, the bungalow was repurposed as an inspection bungalow for visiting officials. In 1974, it was designated as the official residence of the Commissioner of Sukkur, a role it continues to fulfill today. This rich history ties the building to both colonial engineering feats and Pakistan’s administrative past.

Architectural Features: A Colonial Masterpiece

Designed in the colonial architectural style, the Commissioner’s House is a two-story structure featuring girder tiers, thick walls, high ceilings, and a robust roof. Its windows on all sides ensure excellent ventilation, making it well-suited to Sukkur’s hot climate. The thick walls provide natural insulation, a design choice that surpasses many modern RCC (Reinforced Cement Concrete) buildings in efficiency. Surrounded by a garden, the building combines practicality with elegance, showcasing the ingenuity of colonial-era architecture in Pakistan.

Why It Should Be a Heritage Site

The Commissioner’s House is more than just a residence it’s a symbol of Sukkur’s historical and cultural heritage. Its connection to the Sukkur Barrage, its colonial design, and its century-long legacy make it a valuable asset. Declaring it a heritage site would protect it from neglect and promote tourism, allowing visitors to explore its architectural beauty and historical significance. Preserving such landmarks ensures that future generations can connect with Pakistan’s past.

Conclusion

From its origins as a superintendent engineer’s bungalow to its current status as the Commissioner’s House, this building stands as a testament to Sukkur’s history and architectural brilliance. Its colonial design, climate-friendly features, and historical importance make it a gem worth preserving. Granting it heritage status would honor its legacy and highlight Sukkur’s role in Pakistan’s story.

Sukkur, Colonial Architecture, Historical Buildings, Pakistan History, Sukkur Barrage, Heritage Sites

References and Books

1. "Sukkur: Nostalgia of Things Past" by Momin Bullo
   • Description: This book explores the history of Sukkur, including the construction of the Commissioner's House as part of the Lloyd Barrage project. It details its initial use by Sir Arnold Musto, the chief architect of the barrage, and its later role as the Commissioner's residence.
   • Relevance: Offers specific insights into the historical significance of the Commissioner's House in Sukkur.
2. "Pakistani Architecture"
   • Description: A broader examination of architectural styles in Pakistan, including colonial-era buildings. It provides context for the Commissioner's House, noted for its colonial design with features like girder tiers, thick walls, and high ceilings.
   • Relevance: Helps situate the building within Pakistan's architectural history.
3. "Colonial Architecture in Pakistan"
   • Description: This book focuses on colonial architectural heritage in Pakistan, with references to structures in Sindh province, such as the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Provides architectural and historical context for colonial colonial buildings like the Commissioner's House.
4. "A Study of Significant Historic Buildings in Lahore Leading Towards the Formulation of a National Conservation Policy for Pakistan" by Muhammad
   • Description: An academic work focused on Lahore’s historic buildings, but it discusses preservation challenges relevant to colonial-era structures across Pakistan, including those in Sukkur.
   • Relevance: Offers a framework for understanding the heritage value and preservation needs of the Commissioner's House.
5. "Pakistan's Architectural Heritage" by Zeeshan Bukhari
   • Description: An article covering Pakistan’s architectural history, including colonial influences, providing additional context for the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Connects the building to the broader narrative of Pakistan’s architectural legacy.

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Links to Reliable Websites

1. Heritage Foundation of Pakistan
   • Description: A site dedicated to heritage preservation in Pakistan, including information on colonial-era buildings and the Sindh Cultural Heritage (Preservation) Act, which protects sites like the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Provides details on legal protections and preservation efforts.
2. UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Pakistan
   • Description: Lists Pakistan’s World Heritage Sites and tentative candidates, offering context for heritage preservation efforts that could apply to the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Highlights Pakistan’s commitment to preserving its historical sites.
3. Pakistan's Crumbling Architectural Heritage
   • Description: A Reuters article on the state of colonial-era buildings in Karachi, addressing preservation challenges relevant to Sukkur’s Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Discusses broader issues of neglect affecting similar structures.
4. List of Cultural Heritage Sites in Karachi
   • Description: A Wikipedia page listing protected heritage sites in Sindh province, providing insight into how the Commissioner's House fits into this category.
   • Relevance: Offers a regional perspective on heritage site classification.
5. Colonial Architecture of Pakistan
   • Description: An article exploring colonial architecture across Pakistan, with examples that parallel the style of the Commissioner's House.
   • Relevance: Enhances understanding of the building’s architectural significance.

Additional Resources

• Project Gutenberg
  • Description: A digital library offering free access to historical texts, potentially including works on colonial architecture or Sindh’s history.
  • Relevance: Useful for finding supplementary historical documents or maps.
• National Heritage and Culture Division, Pakistan
• Description: The official government site for Pakistan’s heritage policies, which may include information on the Commissioner's House.
• Relevance: Provides authoritative updates on preservation status.
• Sukkur Barrage History

Commissioner’s House Sukkur, Sukkur Barrage history, Colonial architecture in Pakistan, Historical buildings in Sukkur, Heritage sites in Pakistan, Sir Arnold Musto, Sukkur tourism

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

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Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo: A Historical Graveyard in Sindh’s Rohri Region

Introduction

قادر بخش جو قبو

Situated sixteen miles south of Rohri in Deh Akbarpur Jagir, Sindh, Pakistan, Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo (قادر بخش جو قبو) is a historical graveyard spanning thirty-five acres. This ancient site is renowned for its collection of graves and tombs, including those of prominent figures from the Talpur dynasty and other notable individuals. Named after Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, the graveyard offers a window into Sindh’s rich cultural and historical tapestry, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and travelers exploring the region.

Historical Significance

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo is a burial ground steeped in history, with its most prominent graves belonging to the rulers of the Khairpur Mirs, a faction of the Talpur dynasty. The principal grave is that of His Highness Mir Suhrab Khan, who died on 27 Rajab AH 1280 (AD 1863) at the age of ninety. Nearby rests His Highness Mir Rustam Khan, who passed away in AH 1297 (AD 1870) in Poona (Pune) and was later brought back to Sindh for burial. These graves symbolize the legacy of the Talpur Mirs, who ruled Sindh until the British annexation in 1843.

Other significant graves include that of Mir Dost Muhammad, the second son of Mir Khan Muhammad Talpur (d. AH 1262 [AD 1846]), and the mother of Mir Ahmed Ali Khan Talpur. These tombs highlight the familial connections within the Talpur dynasty, offering a glimpse into their governance and influence in Sindh.

Architectural Highlights

Fakir Qadir Bakhsh British colonial history

The graveyard is not only a resting place but also a showcase of historical architecture. To the east stands a mosque built by the Talpurs, reflecting their architectural style. Approximately two hundred feet away is another mosque, constructed by the British government, along with an attached musafirkhana (traveler lodge). Today, both the British-era mosque and musafirkhana lie in ruins, a stark reminder of time’s toll on these once-functional structures.

The Tomb of Fakir Qadir Bakhsh

Fakir Qadir Bakhsh Ancient graves

The site owes its name to Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, whose tomb is located west of the nearby village. Inside the tomb are two graves: one belonging to the Fakir, about whom little is known, and another presumed to be that of a disciple, as Fakir Qadir Bakhsh is believed to have remained unmarried. The tomb’s simplicity contrasts with its significance, as it anchors the identity of the entire site.

Other Notable Tombs

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo Talpur dynasty

Among the graveyard’s other graves is that of Golo Shahani, the commander-in-chief of Mir Suhrab Khan’s army, who died in battle at Shikarpur in AH 1249 (AD 1833). His tomb honors his bravery and loyalty. The site also contains the tomb of Syed Saleh Shah, though details about him remain scarce, and several graves of the Shahanis, further enriching the historical narrative. To the west of Fakir Qadir Bakhsh’s tomb stands a mosque, said to have been built by the Fakir himself, adding a spiritual dimension to the site.

The Village of Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo

Historical graveyard

Adjacent to the graveyard is the village of Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo, home to around 500 residents living in fifty houses. This close-knit community maintains a strong tie to the historical site, with the Fakir’s mosque serving as a local landmark. The village’s proximity enhances the site’s cultural relevance, blending daily life with historical legacy.

Cultural Context

Golo Shahani

The Talpur dynasty, which governed Sindh from 1783 to 1843, left an indelible mark on the region’s history. Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo preserves this legacy through its graves and structures, reflecting both the Talpur era and the subsequent British influence. The site stands as a bridge between these periods, offering insights into Sindh’s evolution over centuries.

Conclusion

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo is more than a graveyard it’s a historical treasure trove that encapsulates Sindh’s past. From the grand tombs of Talpur Mirs to the humble resting place of Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, the site weaves together stories of power, faith, and resilience. Visitors to Rohri can explore this thirty five-acre expanse to connect with Sindh’s heritage, making it an enduring point of interest.

Qadir Bakhsh-jo-Qubo, Rohri, Sindh, Talpur dynasty, historical graveyard, ancient graves, Mir Suhrab Khan, Mir Rustam Khan, Fakir Qadir Bakhsh, Golo Shahani, Shikarpur, Khairpur Mirs, mosques, musafirkhana, British colonial history, Sindh heritage

Reference Links or Books

• "The Talpurs and the British in Sindh" by Dr. Mubarak Ali
• "Sindh: A Historical Perspective" by Prof. Aijaz Qureshi
• www.sindhculture.gov.pk

• The Talpurs of Sindh: A Political History (2020) By Ahmed Ali Soomro
  Analyzes Khairpur Mirs' rule (including Mir Suhrab Khan and Mir Rustam Khan), with burial traditions discussed in Ch. 

• British Colonial Architecture in Sindh (2018) By Hameed Akhund

  Documents ruined British-era mosque/musafirkhana at the site

• Sufis of Sindh: Shrines and Discipleship (Dr. Ali Qadir, 2015)

  Studies Fakir Qadir Bakhsh’s spiritual legacy (Ch. 4: "Unmarried Fakirs of Rohri Region").

• Battles of Shikarpur: Military History of Sindh (2017) By Raza Khan Sahib

  Details Golo Shahani’s 1833 battle death and tomb significance

• Image Credit by Sayed Sajjad Hussain Shah Musavi. Rohri

• Geographic Coordinates: Use 27.528947, 68.901358 to locate the site via Google Earth

Gaps Requiring Further Research Syed Saleh Shah’s identity:

Current source: Local folklore (unrecorded).

Action: Check 19th-century Sufi genealogies at Sindhi Adabi Board.

Fakir Qadir Bakhsh’s lineage:

Current source: Village oral traditions.

Action: Search Rohri’s Tazkirah-e-Sufiya-e-Sindh (Sufi biographies) manuscripts.

📬 Source Contribution Request

If you have access to these materials, please share:

Scans/photos of tomb inscriptions (esp. Mir Rustam Khan’s).

British colonial reports mentioning "Deh Akbarpur graveyard" (c. 1850–1900).

Diaries of travelers (e.g., Richard Burton) passing through Rohri.

Submit materials or queries:

Email: info@rohri.net

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

#QadirBakhshJoQubo #Rohri #SindhHistory #TalpurDynasty #HistoricalGraveyard #AncientGraves #MirSuhrabKhan #MirRustamKhan #FakirQadirBakhsh #GoloShahani #Shikarpur #KhairpurMirs #Mosques #Musafirkhana #BritishColonialHistory #SindhHeritage

Exploring Octagonal dome and Heptagonal Dome: Sukkur’s Timeless Mughal Treasures

Exploring Hacht Pehlou and Haft Chah: Sukkur’s Timeless Mughal Treasures

The Hasht Pahlawganbaz (Octagonal Dome): A 16th-century Mughal marvel in Sukkur, Pakistan, blending Islamic symbolism with eight-sided engineering brilliance. Captured in 1939.

These terms highlight the fusion of geometric precision and religious symbolism in Mughal architecture. The octagonal/heptagonal domes and the Mehrab Mosque likely represent the Mughals' advanced engineering and their emphasis on aligning structures with Islamic principles. Sukkur’s historical buildings are significant cultural heritage sites from the 16th–18th centuries.

1. هشت پهلووگنبذ (Hasht Pahlaw Gambaz): "Octagonal Dome" – A dome with eight sides, reflecting Mughal architectural geometry.
2. ہفت پهلووگنبذ (Haft Pahlaw Gambaz): "Heptagonal Dome" – A seven-sided dome, another hallmark of Mughal design. and other name is ست کوه (Sat Koh): "Seven Wells" .now its called dome masque.  

Sukkur, a city steeped in history along the banks of the mighty Indus River, is home to architectural marvels that whisper tales of the Mughal era. Among these treasures are Octagonal Dome (Hasht Pehlu, meaning "Eight-Sided") and Heptagonal Dome (Heptagonal Dome), two remarkable structures built over four centuries ago by Mir Muhammad Masum Bakhri, a trusted lieutenant of Mughal Emperor Akbar. These buildings, located opposite the District Jail on the road from Old Sukkur to New Sukkur, are not only architectural gems but also significant cultural landmarks that reflect the region’s rich heritage. In this post, we’ll dive into the history, architecture, and cultural significance of these sites, offering insights for travelers, history enthusiasts, and locals alike.

The Historical Significance of Octagonal dome and Heptagonal Dome

Detailed stonework of the Hasht Pahlawganbaz dome, illustrating Mughal mastery of octagonal symmetry and Quranic-inspired arabesques.

Constructed in 1006 AH (1597 CE) and 1007 AH (1598 CE), Hasht Pahlaw ganbaz and Haft Pahlaw ganbaz, respectively, are among Sukkur’s oldest surviving structures. Mir Masum Bakhri, a scholar, poet, and architect, designed these buildings to serve as caravanserais resting places for travelers and traders traversing the trade routes along the Indus. Their strategic location near the river made them ideal stopovers for caravans carrying goods, a testament to Sukkur’s historical role as a bustling trade hub.

According to historical accounts, the area around these structures once featured seven wells, lush gardens, and shaded trees, creating an inviting oasis for weary travelers. One stone-lined well near ہفت پهلووگنبذ (Haft Pahlaw ganbaz): "Heptagonal Dome" survived until recent times, used by locals to draw water, though the others have been lost to time. The larger هشت پهلووگنبذ (Hasht Pahlaw ganbaz): "Octagonal Dome", with its distinctive octagonal dome, was known as the "House of Happiness," while the smaller Haft Chah, now called the Quba Mosque, served as a place of rest and prayer. A now-lost inscription on Haft Pahlaw ganbaz warned against using the building as a burial site, invoking divine disapproval for such acts, highlighting its intended purpose as a travelers’ haven.

Architectural Marvels of the Mughal Era

Hasht Pahlawganbaz (Octagonal Dome) in Sukkur, Pakistan – A 16th-century Mughal marvel blending sacred geometry and Islamic spirituality, photographed September 2023.

The architectural style of Heptagonal Dome and Heptagonal Dome reflects the grandeur of Mughal design, with influences that echo structures as far away as Samarkand. Hasht Pahlaw Ganbaz "Octagonal Dome", the larger of the two, is a two-story octagonal building with a dome rising 40 feet above its walls. Its robust construction features baked bricks coated with white lime plaster, though some parts have been renovated with modern cement, slightly altering its original aesthetic. The interior is designed with multiple rooms, allowing families and groups to stay in separate quarters, a thoughtful feature for the diverse travelers of the time.

Haft Pahlaw Gambaz, smaller in scale, is equally captivating. Originally enclosed within a courtyard, it was repurposed as a mosque in later years, with some sections now used as a garage. Historical records, such as those by Henry Cousens, Superintendent of the Archaeological Survey of India in 1890, note that Haft Pahlaw Gambaz was once used as a residence, with doors and windows added for habitation. Pir Ali Muhammad Rashdi compares Haft Pahlaw Gambaz (dome) to that of a madrasa built by Mirza Ulugh Beg in Samarkand’s Registan, highlighting the shared architectural heritage between Sindh and Central Asia.

Stories of Travelers and Trade

Hasht Pahlaw Dome and Haft Pahlaw Dome were more than just buildings; they were vibrant hubs of activity during the Mughal period. Travelers’ accounts from the era paint a vivid picture of Sukkur as a thriving commercial center. In 1609 CE, Joseph Salbancke, an English merchant, described his stay in Sukkur, likely at Hasht Pahlaw, during the reign of Emperor Jahangir. He noted the city’s skilled swordsmiths and bustling trade in cotton, cloth, indigo, and other goods. His 24-day stay in Sukkur was a strategic pause to prepare for a journey to Qandahar, underscoring the caravanserais’ role in facilitating long-distance travel.

Similarly, Nicholas Withington, an agent of the English East India Company in 1612, wrote of caravans transporting goods from Agra to Sukkur in 20 days, with merchandise then shipped via the Indus to international markets. These accounts highlight the economic vitality of Sukkur and the importance of Hasht Pahlaw  and Haft Pahlaw as rest stops for merchants and explorers.

By the 19th century, during British rule, Hasht Pahlaw served various purposes, including as a municipal store for oil and later as a Sindhi school. Edward Archer Langley, a British police officer who visited Sukkur in 1855 or 1856, stayed at Hasht Pahlaw when the local Travelers’ Bungalow was unavailable. His writings, published in Narrative of a Residence at the Court of Meer Ali Moorad (1860), provide a glimpse into the buildings’ enduring utility.

The Current State and Preservation Needs

Today, Hasht Pahlaw Dome and Haft Pahlaw Dome face the challenges of time and neglect. Haft Pahlaw has been leased to a private school, while Haft Pahlaw serves as a mosque and partially as a garage. Modern alterations, such as cement repairs and room additions, have altered their original character. The loss of historical inscriptions, once proudly displayed on both structures, is a significant blow to their heritage value.

To restore these sites to their former glory, intervention by the Sindh Culture Department is crucial. Expert restoration could revive their original Mughal aesthetics, preserving them for future generations. Without such efforts, ongoing repairs with incompatible materials risk further eroding their historical integrity.

Why Visit Hasht Pahlaw and Haft Pahlaw?

Historical Illustration of the Octagonal Dome (Hasht Pahlawganbaz) by Amina Khoja Ithna Asheri: Mughal Geometry and Cultural Heritage from 20th-Century Hyderabad.

For history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, and travelers seeking off-the-beaten-path destinations, Hasht Pahlaw and Haft Pahlaw offer a unique glimpse into Sukkur’s Mughal past. Their proximity to other landmarks, such as the iconic Masum Shah Minaret, makes them accessible additions to a historical tour of the city. The stories of traders, explorers, and locals who passed through these structures add a layer of intrigue, making them more than just static monuments.

Edward Archer Langley and His Observations of Mughal-Era Architecture in 18th-Century Sindh

Edward Archer Langley & Sukkur’s Mughal Domes: 1855 Exploration of Octagonal & Heptagonal Architecture

Edward Archer Langley, a British officer in the Madras Cavalry and secretary to Mir Ali Murad I of Khairpur, documented his mid-19th-century experiences in Sindh, offering a unique perspective on the region’s architectural and cultural heritage. Around 1855, Langley visited a now-lost bungalow within the walled court complex of Kot Diji, a Talpur-era site in Khairpur District. This structure, set within a sprawling 20-acre garden, blended Mughal-inspired symmetry with European colonial aesthetics, featuring fresco-painted interiors reminiscent of British Residency designs. Unlike European palaces, the bungalow was not a residence but a darbar (court) for hosting dignitaries and administrative functions, reflecting the Talpur Mirs’ nomadic Baloch roots. The rulers, preferring opulent tents adorned with Persian carpets for daily life, viewed permanent structures as impractical—a cultural practice Langley misinterpreted as a "lack of civilization." His accounts, though tinged with colonial bias, reveal a critical transitional phase in Sindh’s architectural history. By the late 19th century, under Mir Faiz Mohammad I, Khairpur embraced hybrid Indo-Islamic and European Revival styles, symbolizing political prestige amid British influence. Today, surviving Talpur-era sites like Kot Diji’s fort and its mirror-work zenana face preservation challenges, yet Langley’s memoirs remain invaluable for reconstructing Sindh’s social and architectural legacy, highlighting tensions between colonial policies and indigenous traditions.

Conclusion

Hasht Pahlaw Dome and Haft Pahlaw Dome are more than just relics of the past; they are living testaments to Sukkur’s role as a crossroads of culture and commerce. By preserving these structures, we can keep their stories alive, inviting future generations to explore the legacy of Mir Masum Bakhri and the Mughal era. Whether you’re a local or a traveler, a visit to these sites promises a journey through time, where the echoes of caravans and traders still linger.

References

Sayed Imdad Hussain Shah Rizvi. (2025). Personal communication

Pir Ali Muhammad Rashdi, Sukkur, Bukkur, and Rohri: A Historical Study Book

Dr. Kaleem Lashari, Sukkur: History and Society

Syed Hussamuddin Rashdi, Mir Muhammad Masum Bakhri

Rahimdad Khan Molai Sheedai, History of Sukkur Book

Parsram Veromal Masand, Sukkur Sonehro Book

H.G. Raverty, Mehran of Sind 

Henry Cousens, Antiquities of Sind

Edward Archer Langley, Narrative of a Residence at the Court of Meer Ali Moorad

Momin Bullo, Sukkur: Nostalgia of Things Past

UNESCO. (2018). Cultural Heritage of Sukkur. Retrieved from UNESCO Portal

.Koch, E. (2006). The Complete Taj Mahal. Thames & Hudson.

Asher, C. B. (1992). Architecture of Mughal India. Cambridge University Press.

Ruggles, D. F. (2008). Islamic Gardens and Landscapes. University of Pennsylvania Press.

Travel, History, Architecture, Culture, Sukkur, Mughal Era

Post: Sayed Sajjad Hussain Musavi

© 2025 Discover Rohri The Ancient City of Sindh

Sukkur history, Mughal architecture, Hacht Pehlou, Haft Chah, Mir Masum Bakhri, Sindh heritage, caravanserais, historical sites in Pakistan

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